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From Fay’s to Food

When I was a child, my grandparents had a shop called Gil’s in the Ilion Fay’s Mall. I absolutely loved going to work with them and visiting with all the different shop owners. For a brief period, they also opened Grace’s Alli Café, which was next door to Gil’s. Fast forward over 25 years later, a move back to the area, and I am now in the exact same spot as the former café, except now it’s the Veggie Van Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market.

Food insecurity remains a pressing issue in Herkimer County. The complexities of food access require innovative solutions that connect people with nutritious food choices and overcome barriers. One such solution is the establishment of an Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market. This market is an extension of the Veggie Van program from last season, which helped serve 1,498 residents. It has been developed to provide access to fresh, locally sourced produce, foster community engagement, support local economies, and contribute to public health goals.

ARC Mall with sun above
produce table with people next to it

Thanks to the generosity of ARC Herkimer, the Veggie Van Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market is set-up in a space where local farmers and food producers can sell their goods during winter months, ensuring continuous access to fresh produce. The ARC Mall in Ilion is the perfect location for our first indoor market. The centralized location creates a hub for community interactions and a venue for educational initiatives that promote healthy eating habits.

Indoor winter farmers’ markets play a significant role in supporting local economies. By providing a platform for farmers, these markets enable producers to sell directly to consumers, thus retaining a greater share of the profits. This model encourages a sense of community and promotes economic resilience. Additionally, the presence of an indoor winter farmers’ market attracts consumers who may also patronize nearby businesses, creating a localized circulatory economy that benefits everyone.

“It truly is a win-win for everyone.”

In speaking with Market Manager, Pooniel Healy, she said, “The Winter Veggie Van Market provides a warm, welcoming communal space for farmers to meet and engage with their customers while also providing customers the opportunity to support local farmers and producers in the Mohawk Valley. It truly is a win-win for everyone.” Pooniel is also the owner of Free Flow Farm and runs the Mohawk Valley Farmers’ Market, located in Herkimer, during the summer.

This season’s market space serves as a gathering place for residents, where they can connect with one another, share experiences, and participate in community-led initiatives. Programs such as cooking demonstrations and nutrition workshops will be integrated into the market, promoting health education that extends beyond the market’s produce stalls.

squash with sign for damin farm behind it
West end farm table

The establishment of indoor winter farmers’ markets in areas plagued by food insecurity represents a dynamic and vital response to the complex challenges surrounding food access. Historically rooted in the need for direct connections between producers and consumers, these markets have evolved into hubs that promote community engagement, economic resilience, and public health initiatives. While these markets have transformative impacts, it is important to remain aware of the associated challenges and continually seek innovative solutions to strengthen their sustainability and inclusivity. As we work to alleviate food insecurity in Herkimer County, indoor winter farmers’ markets must be viewed as part of a larger ecosystem requiring systemic changes to secure food justice for all.

Alexandra Tamburro is a NY Public Health Fellow assigned to Cornell Cooperative Extension Herkimer County. She is committed to contributing to civic programs that strengthen local communities, address social problems, and provide disaster preparedness. With fifteen years of experience in disaster relief across the United States and the Virgin Islands, she has worked on the ground in communities affected by natural crises, helping to rebuild and support recovery efforts. Additionally, Alexandra co-created a community garden in Frankfort to address food insecurity, foster local connections, and promote environmental stewardship. On the weekends, you may find her with her camera in hand at her shop, Main Street Mercantile, in Little Falls. Her photography and writing have been used by various non-profits and featured in art galleries throughout New York State.

Article published January 27, 2025.

Alli in construction gear, sitting on concrete